Tip: Making your own jumping kit
In order to learn how to jump, having an obstacle to jump over may prove useful.
I realized that I can jump better when I have to jump over an obstacle... Thus I started looking for a jumping bar over which I could jump.
I wanted my kit to be adjustable vertically and the bar to come off easily so that it wouldn't make me fall. I also wanted it to be easy to carry around and unbreakable (preferably). Last but not least, cheap would be tops!
And I found... nothing. So that I decided to build it myself...
- A 2 m PVC tube of diameter 32 mm: 2€
- An aluminum bar of 4 mm: 2.15€
- 2 oak blocks: 0.86x2 = 1.72€ for both
- 1 scrap wood
- 2 big screws (100 mm)
- 2 small screws (30 mm)
- Measuring tape
- Felt pen
- Wood saw
Non-necessary but useful tools:
- Screw gun
Cut the PVC tube in two halves with a wood or a hacksaw.
Cut two small pieces of wood of 100x18x18 mm.
Check that your wood pieces enter the tube.
Find two screws long enough to cross the wooden blocks. My blocks being 60 mm high, I took 100 mm screws.
Drill the blocks to insert the screws.
Make a little hole with a bigger drill bit so that the screw head doesn't stick out from the block. If it does, the block will be wobbly.
Make a pre-hole for the screws in the small pieces of wood.
Screw the small pieces of wood to the wooden blocks.
Place the tubes on the pieces of wood to check if it holds. It starts resembling something, doesn't it...
The blocks are 60mm high.
Taking into account that the tubes will be placed on the wooden blocks, make holes every 5 cm on one tube.
Fix the tube to the block with a small notch. Don't screw too hard. Theoretically, the tube can rotate a quarter turn without the wooden block moving.
Make marks every 5 cm on the second tube.
Make notches with a grinder. Widen the small notches with a drill.
If you don't have a grinder, make 2 holes with a drill, then cut the notch with a saw. It takes more time than with a grinder, but it works just as well.
Make a small hole at the basis to fix the tube to the wooden block. This time the tube shouldn't rotate.
And this is the result!
Conclusion after the first tries
What was planned was that, in case of a collision with the bar, it would come off on the notches side, not on that of the holes. The tube with holes, that can rotate, should turne.
In practice, it doesn't works as planned: Most of the time, the bar tends to first come off on the notches side and falls to the side, which is not dangerous.
The aluminum bar is a little fragile. It tends to bend slightly if it doesn't come off well. You can straighten it back up with bare hands. It is not much of a problem but I'm afraid it ends up breaking.
The aluminum bar I chose is less than 1 m long. It may be a bit short for split jumps. It's good enough for squat jumps but not optimal for the rest.
The bar can go up to 1.05m max. For free jump it's a honorable height although I know that some of you can jump far higher!
For my part I don't go higher than 70 cm.
But placed behind a springboard the bar becomes quickly too low. I may have chosen a PVC tube of 3, even 4 m. But then, 2m tubes are cumbersome to carry all the way to your spot.
As for storage, the metal bar can be slipped into one of the tubes so that you can carry the whole kit with one hand.
That's an idea of stuff to do on a rainy day. I don't know what you think about it but it met quite a success every time I went to the skatepark with it!
Useful linkBy Pico12
Translation: Chloe Seyres